![]() Looks like I may be in for a little garage time this winter while I try to get everything sorted and figured out! When fully charged it seems to turn the engine sufficiently and is holding onto its storage so far, and as long as I don't try to crank the out of it the generator brings it back up quickly. Also, the battery cables that came with the car do appear to be 0 gauge and the battery itself is the long case, but I will have to check the CCA rating to be sure. By the way, do I need to order a specific Packard coil or will any 6V do? The ones I've seen advertised from the usual vendors are in the $250 range and would rather buy a generic one if possible. Wondering if the coil is acting up during this whole episode - that would explain the lack of decent spark when hot. The insulating block for the carburetor base is also there so I guess the first order of business this winter is to get some new fuel line and redirect it. Thanks for the response the heat shield above the fuel pump is indeed still there so it may just be a case of the fuel line being way too close to the manifold. Are the cables the recommended 0 or 00 gauge and with that large engine is the battery in good condition and with the largest CCA you can fit in the tray. If electrical, the hot engine increases the load on the starter and if anything is marginal in the starter or the electrical then voltage at the coil could be low during cranking and spark may not be strong enough to fire the plugs reliably. Do you have the shield between the manifold and fuel pump? That is missing on many cars and could also provide some help. The original shields are quite small and with a fuel prone to vaporizing may not really be doing much. If it is bubbling then keeping the heat away from the filter sounds as if it may do more good. The electric pumps mounted more at the tank end helps alleviate the problem by providing pressure in the low side of the line. As I understand it the fuel is more prone to the problem in the suction side before the pump where the low pressure allows the gasses to come out of the liquid easily. I don't know if the rubber hose would really do much for vapor lock. It would be good to know if the engine was flooded as if might have happened if the carb percolated and dumped fuel thru the jets into the manifold or it the problem was electrical. The statement of it bubbling away in the filter kind of lends some truth to that. ![]() There have been many who say modern fuel is much more volatile than the old stuff. Have already ordered a carb rebuild kit from Daytona in case that's part of the problem. An old-timer years ago suggested I pour a little Marvel's Mystery oil into the gas tank every fill-up when I had my ancient Chevrolet (in the Louisiana heat) and she never failed to start, but I wanted to ask before trying it in a much more expensive automobile. Until I can figure this out I'm very wary about driving the car more than a mile or two away from the garage, as I don't want to shut the engine off in case she won't start again. The heat shield over the manifold is in place but I'm wondering if I should cut the metal fuel line leading to the carburetor and install a rubber fuel hose instead, or try to redirect the line further away from the stock position - it looks a little too close to the engine block to me, but this is my first Packard. Do these cars in particular have an issue with vapor lock and if so, what are the usual fixes besides installing an electric fuel pump? She still has her 6 volt system and I did check all the electrical connections (the coil may or may not be a candidate for replacing soon, as I don't know how old it is). After turning it off and leaving it for another five minutes she refused to start again and I noticed the gasoline at bottom of the glass fuel bowl attached to the carburetor bubbling away, so I tried again after an hour and she fired right up after a second or two. I just had my '47 Super 8 delivered a few days ago and had a devil of a time getting it started (hadn't run in a week), so I left it running for about 45 minutes to charge the battery up and check for any leaks. ![]()
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